Tabagak Making in Culasi, Roxas City: A Deep Dive into a Local Tradition

 

Tabagak Making in Culasi, Roxas City: A Deep Dive into a Local Tradition

Culasi, a charming coastal town in Roxas City, is renowned for its vibrant fishing culture, particularly the making of tabagak fish, a local delicacy. The community's connection to the sea is not just a way to make a living; it’s a cherished tradition that reflects the resilience, skill, and camaraderie of its fishermen. Central to this tradition is the Likos, the fishing boats that venture into the bountiful waters in search of tabagak.

The Likos: Setting Sail for Tabagak

The fishing day begins in the late afternoon, between 4 PM and 5 PM, when fishermen gather to prepare their Likos. These boats, ranging from small to large, are specially designed for fishing in the coastal waters.

• Small Likos typically hold five to six people, while larger Likos accommodate up to eight men. The size of the boat determines the number of crew members, ensuring that the work is divided efficiently.
• Once on the water, the fishermen employ various techniques to locate and catch tabagak, often using nets that are specifically designed for this type of fish. They look for "Gataw" or school of fishes. They said it looks like a rain in the middle of the ocean or it looks like red color from afar. During full moon, they have fish finder instruments in locating the fish.

Fishing for Tabagak: The Catch

The process of fishing for tabagak is both skillful and strategic. The fishermen must be knowledgeable about the local waters, understanding where to find the fish at different times of the year.

• The journey typically lasts a few hours, with fishermen returning between 7 PM and 8 PM. However, they may extend their time on the water if they are actively zoning for tabagak, especially during peak fishing seasons.
• Upon arrival back at the shore, the excitement builds as they prepare to sort and process their catch.

Risks of Going to Sea

While fishing for tabagak is a time-honored tradition, it comes with its share of risks. The fishermen face various challenges each time they venture out:

• Unpredictable Weather: The sea can be unpredictable, and sudden storms or rough waters can pose significant dangers. They sall it "Sulog" or strong current of water from high tide to low tide. There's also what they called "Pugada" it is a sudden gust of wind in the ocean. Fishermen must remain vigilant and prepared to return to shore quickly if conditions deteriorate.
• Equipment Failure: Mechanical issues with the Likos, such as engine failure or damaged nets, can lead to delays and loss of catch.
• Profit Loss: During the rainy season, the fishing yield may decrease, and the demand for fish can dwindle. This situation can lead to profit losses, as the fishermen invest time and resources without guaranteed returns.

Waswas: The Initial Processing

Once back on land, the first task is waswas, the process of carefully removing the fish from the nets. This step is crucial, as it ensures that the tabagak are not damaged during handling.

• Depending on the quantity caught, waswas can take from 30 minutes to 2 hours. The fishermen work as a team, chatting and sharing stories while they sort through their catch, showcasing the camaraderie that is a hallmark of the fishing community.

Paglama: The Salting Process

After sorting, the fishermen move on to paglama, the salting process that is vital for preserving the fish.

• They measure the fish using a banyera, a traditional container, to ensure they add the right amount of salt. Locals recommend a ratio of one sack of rice to 3 to 5 banyera of fish.
• The more salt used, the better the preservation, but it’s essential to find a balance. Too much salt can alter the flavor and make the fish less desirable.
• The tabagak is placed in old refrigerators for soaking overnight, allowing the salt to penetrate the flesh and enhance its flavor.

Drying the Tabagak: A Morning Ritual

As dawn breaks, the next step begins at 6 AM. The fishermen carefully remove the tabagak from the refrigerators and place them on kapil, split-bamboo trays. This drying process is critical for ensuring the fish is ready for sale.

• The trays are placed in direct sunlight, allowing the warmth and light to dry the fish effectively. Fishermen must flip the fish every three hours to ensure even drying on both sides.
• Vigilance is key during this stage, as unexpected rain can ruin the batch. Rain-soaked tabagak are often rendered unsuitable for sale due to the risk of worms developing.

Packaging and Marketing: From Catch to Sale

Once the drying process is complete, the tabagak is meticulously packaged based on size:

• TS (small),

• TM (medium and good quality),

• TR (headless and with exposed stomachs).

• The packaging ensures that each category is clearly marked for buyers, who often frequent local markets or purchase directly from the fishermen.

• Pricing fluctuates based on market conditions, demand, and the season, with fishermen needing to stay informed about the going rates to secure fair prices for their hard work.

Cultural Significance and Community Involvement

Tabagak making is more than just a livelihood for the people of Culasi; it is a way of life that fosters community bonds and cultural pride. The fishing tradition has been passed down through generations, with techniques and practices carefully preserved.

• Community members often gather to share tips and stories, reinforcing their shared identity as fishermen and guardians of their local heritage.
• Festivals and local events often celebrate the fishing culture, bringing together families and neighbors to honor their maritime roots.

The tradition of tabagak making in Culasi, Roxas City, is a remarkable testament to the resilience and spirit of the local fishing community. From the thrilling experience of setting sail in Likos to the meticulous processes of waswas, paglama, and drying, every step is infused with care and dedication. However, the risks associated with fishing and the uncertainties of market demand, especially during the rainy season, add layers of complexity to this age-old tradition. As visitors explore this vibrant coastal town, they are invited to appreciate not only the delicious tabagak but also the rich cultural tapestry that sustains this time-honored practice, which thrives on community spirit and the enduring bond between the people and the sea.